Bangkok

I spent a few days in Bangkok on the way back from Myanmar to Japan. I could have flown direct, but it wasn’t much more expensive to stop off at Bangkok, and as well as knowing a few people there, I thought it would be an interesting contrast to the previous two weeks.  I had spent all my time preparing myself for Myanmar, so that when I arrived in Bangkok I didn’t know what to expect.  The city was so modern with highrises everywhere (interspersed with lovely little pockets of green) and the new Sky Train rivalled Tokyo’s transportation system.

IMG_5322 (600x800)It was coming up to the Queen’s 83rd birthday, so there was a lot of publicity celebrating it. I was aware that it’s a crime to criticise the monarchy in Thailand, but I didn’t know quite how serious it was.  People, both Thais and foreigners can face up to 15 years in prison for defaming, insulting or threatening the King, Queen or the Heir.  Even not showing due respect can result in a fine or jail time. I never went to the cinema while I was there, but if I had gone, I would have had to stand up with the rest of the cinema-goers while the royal anthem was played, because not doing so can potentially land you in trouble. Of course I wasn’t going to be talking about the royal family with anyone, and I didn’t know enough to criticize, but it was quite scary how serious a crime it is, especially when that lèse majesté law has been used by various Thai governments to stifle free speech. The monarchy has a really interesting history (and future), and I visited the Grand Palace that dates from 1782 when it was built for King Rama I.

IMG_8534 (599x800)I took the boat to the palace and it was a good way to experience a bit of the old Venice of the East.  Our boat was passed out by colourful motorized gondolas, and there were some nice views of temples on the river, but there were also some shanty-like houses that reminded me of Myanmar, because of course there are many sides to any real city.  The Grand Palace was crowded with tourists, but I was glad I was there by myself so I could take my time and wait for the occasional lull.  The Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations & Coins had an incredible trove of royal treasures. Although there were similarities in design with the treasures I saw in the National Museum in Yangon, the way they were displayed here, with photographs and videos of them being worn or used by members of the monarchy, left no doubt that these were the heritage of a living royal family.

IMG_8538 (800x593)IMG_8542 (800x600)The Grand Palace was really stunning with all its glittering gold and glass mosaics. Unfortunately the Temple of the Emerald Buddha was closed when I was there because the emerald (jade) Buddha statue was being prepared to change into his rainy season regalia. The Museum of the Emerald Buddha Temple was really interesting, because the ground floor contained a lot of architectural elements of different buildings in the Grand Palace complex that had been replaced at various times. There was an exhibit, though without much English explanation about how the buildings were restored. Upstairs there were many objets d’art that had been given as offerings to the Buddha, and the gold seasonal attire for the Emerald Buddha.

IMG_8546 (600x800)IMG_8543 (600x800)IMG_8558 (600x800)IMG_8560 (800x599) Somerset Maugham stayed in Bangkok during his travels from Burma to Vietnam in 1923, and although he didn’t visit the Grand Palace, here is his description of the exterior:

For some reason that I forget I had not been able to see the palace, but I did not regret it since it thus retained for me the faint air of mystery which of all the emotions is that which you can least find in Bangkok. It is surrounded by a great white wall, strangely crenellated, and the crenellations have the effect of a row of lotus buds. […] Towards evening the white wall becomes pink and translucent and then above it, the dusk shrouding their garishness with its own soft glamour, you see, higgledy-piggledy, the gay, fantastic and multicoloured roofs of the palace and the wats and the bright-hued tapering of the pagodas. You divine wide courtyards, with lovely gateways intricately decorated, in which officials of the court, in their sober but distinguished dress, are intent upon secret affairs; and you imagine walks lined with trim, clipped trees and temples sombre and magnificent, throne-halls rich with gold and precious stones and apartments, vaguely scented, dark and cool, in which lie in careless profusion the storied treasures of the East.

Somerset Maugham The Gentleman in the Parlour

IMG_8566 (800x600)IMG_8564 (800x600)IMG_8555 (800x591)After the Grand Palace I went to the nearby Wat Pho that has the famous reclining Buddha. Both the Grand Palace and Wat Pho had really beautiful murals on the walls.  Along the wall behind the reclining Buddha are 108 bronze bowls where you are encouraged to drop a coin into each to bring your good luck. Unfortuately this had the opposite effect for one man, who was so intent on his coin-dropping that he stepped barefoot onto a wasp that was on the floor – a punishment I wouldn’t wish on anyone. Wat Pho is also famous for its traditional Thai massage school and it was wonderful to have the mild tension of sight-seeing stretched out of me.

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IMG_8584 (800x600)Possibly my favourite place in Bangkok was the Jim Thompson House & Museum. Jim Thompson the person is fascinating. He was an architect before he joined the U.S. army and went to North Africa, Europe, Sri Lanka and Thailand. After leaving the army in 1946 he returned to Bangkok where he founded the Thai Silk Company and revitalized the silk industry, especially by bringing it to international prominence through commissions from the musical The King and I in 1951. He lived in Bangkok until his mysterious disappearance in 1967 in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. In 1976 the James H.W. Thompson Foundation was established to administer the house and museum.

In 1958 he began work on his house which combines six teak buildings from Bangkok and the old capital of Ayutthaya.  These traditional Thai buildings are combined in a manner that also reflects Western sensibilities. The buildings are elevated one story above the ground in the traditional manner, the roof tiles were fired using a centuries-old design and the red paint on the exterior is a traditional preservative. Thompson built an entrance foyer with cool Italian black and white marble tiles from a 19th century Bangkok palace, placed the stairs inside the structure and connected the buildings with covered hallways. Other unique changes he made were to turn the interior window openings into niches for his art collection and use two Chinese mahjong tables as the dining table. He ammassed a sizeable collection of southeast-asian antiques which are on display in the house. The jungle-like garden hides and separates the house from the bustling cosmopolitan city just a few meters away.

IMG_8506 (1280x943)IMG_8514 (800x600)IMG_8515 (800x600)As a museum it’s quite well run, though because it’s such a popular tourist attraction that I’m sure it gets very busy in the high season. You purchase a ticket at the entrance and then join a tour of the house – no shoes and no photos. The tour was really interesting, given by knowledgeble guides wearing Thompson Thai silk, who were happy to answer any extra questions. They also had tours available in french. At the front were some girls who demonstrated how silk was made, dyed and spun, and they performed traditional dances every hour. The cafe is really nice and faces the house, across a pond of carp.

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Utah + Nevada

As we drove towards Utah, the red Arizona rock became paler, and the spots of vegetation seemed greener by comparison. We were driving to Zion National Park to see another canyon.
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????The way into the canyon was through a tunnel, and as were driving through it, we caught a glimpse of the canyon below through an opening in the rock, and then emerged high up in the canyon, as the road with hairpin turns snaked below us.

????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????We drove through and parked the car, getting a shuttle bus up to the start of the Emerald Pools hiking trail. The trail was easy and pleasant as we walked a level path along the river, shaded by foliage, and then up to a waterfall and its pools. It was a nice contrast from the Grand Canyon the day before.  While the Grand Canyon’s scenery was awesome, Zion’s was gorgeous.

????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????It was very beautiful and quite relaxing but our journey wasn’t over yet. We hit the road again and drove to Nevada. The land there seemed to change again into a rocky, scrubby desert, bleached of colour.  It was strange to see a concrete city rise up out of the desert after all the nature we’d seen.  We arrived in Las Vegas before dark so I was able to see it in its daylight hideousness as we drove around looking for a Chipotle to get burritos for lunch/dinner.
IMG_3407IMG_3359We stayed at the Aria, the newest casino-hotel on the strip and it was pretty swanky – when we entered our room the curtains opened automatically!  Another coworker of K’s was staying at the Flamingo down the road, so we got to see the inside of that, all pink and white.  The corridors were eerie, like out of The Shining.

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The rest of my pictures from the Strip are on my tumblr and I saw the Bellagio fountains, which reminded me of Drop Dead Gorgeous.

Las Vegas was so strange, it really felt like Disneyland for adults, with everything made out of cardboard and lightbulbs.  I enjoyed my visit, just like I enjoyed Tokyo Disneyland, but I don’t see the attraction of going back to these kinds of places.  The novelty would wear thin pretty quick I think.

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The Mob Museum was great, housed in the former post office and courthouse.  It showed the history of the city’s founding and growth, as well as its ties to organised crime all over America.  It presented a lot of information and artefacts in really inventive and entertaining exhibits.  The picture below, I took as we were leaving Las Vegas because I recognised the Cheetah’s sign as the strip club that’s featured in the film Showgirls that I’d seen at the Kanazawa Film Festival in 2012.

IMG_3420IMG_3439IMG_3451IMG_3461IMG_3459The drive back was full of crazy roadside attractions, as well as miles of traffic tailbacks on the highway as people headed back to California on a Sunday afternoon after a weekend of dissipation.

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And that’s the end of my American Adventure!